Apple Tree Planting Guide. Getting Your Apple Tree Off to the Right Start

The way an apple tree is planted has a lasting impact on its health, stability, and productivity. Most long-term problems - poor growth, weak anchorage, slow cropping - can often be traced back to planting errors in the first few weeks.

The good news is that planting correctly is straightforward.

With careful preparation and attention to a few key details, your tree will establish strong roots, adapt to its new soil, and grow steadily for decades to come.

Whether you are planting a single apple tree in a garden or establishing a small orchard, the principles are the same: protect the roots, prepare the planting site properly, and avoid shortcuts.

Heeling In: If  You Can’t Plant Immediately

All our apples are shipped to you as Bare root trees meaning they are grown in open field conditions rather than pots. They are dug up and shipped to you within several days. They should ideally be planted as soon as possible after delivery. However, weather or ground conditions don’t always cooperate. If the soil is frozen, waterlogged, or you simply aren’t ready to plant, trees should be heeled in temporarily.

What does Heeling in Mean?

Heeling in protects the roots from drying out, getting frozen and prevents damage.

To heel in:

1.         Choose a sheltered, well-drained spot.

2.       Dig a shallow trench deep enough to cover the roots.

3.       Lay the tree at a slight angle.

4.       Cover the roots fully with soil.

5.       Firm gently and water if the soil is dry.

The aim is simply to keep the roots moist and protected until permanent planting is possible. Trees can remain heeled in for many weeks if necessary.

Never leave bare roots exposed to air or sun, even for short periods. Damage to roots is one of the most common causes of establishment failure.

Preparing to Plant your Apple Tree. Steps you need to take

Before digging the hole, prepare the site properly.

1. Remove Grass and Weeds

Clear a circle at least 1 metre wide around the planting spot. Grass competes aggressively with young trees for water and nutrients. This competition is one of the main reasons newly planted trees struggle.

Avoid planting directly into turf without removal as this will significantly slow establishment.

2. Check Drainage

Trees dislike sitting in water. If a planting hole fills and holds water after rain, drainage may need improvement before planting. In heavier soils, breaking up compacted layers around the hole can make a significant difference.

3. Planning

If you are planting over a large area with many trees, we recommend placing stakes where you intend the trees to go to make sure the layout is correct. Make sure you space the trees according to the size of the mature tree as more vigorous rootstocks need more space. Check out our Rootstock Guide for information on this.

4. Soak Bare Roots

Before planting, soak bare roots in water for one to three hours. This rehydrates the tree after transport and reduces transplant shock. Do not soak for excessively long periods.

5. Digging the Right Hole

One of the most common mistakes is digging a hole that is too small.

The planting hole should be:

• Wider than the root system (at least twice the width of the roots)
• No deeper than the roots naturally reach

Wider is far more important than deeper. Roots spread outwards as they establish, so loosening the surrounding soil encourages faster anchorage and growth.

Break up compacted soil around the sides and base of the hole. Avoid leaving smooth, glazed edges, especially in heavy clay, as this can restrict root penetration.

Do not dig excessively deep. Planting too deeply can suffocate roots and weaken the tree. Square or rectangular holes are better for initial establishment as roots are likely to embed into the surrounding soil when they meet a corner.

(Continues with Steps 6 - 12 below this image)

6. Positioning the Tree

When placing the tree in the hole:

• Spread the roots out naturally.
• Ensure the graft union (the visible swelling where the variety meets the rootstock) remains well above soil level, typically 5–8 cm above the finished soil surface.

Planting too deeply is a frequent and serious error.

Burying the graft can allow the variety to root independently, altering the intended tree size and reducing rootstock benefits.

7. Using Mycorrhizal Inoculant

Applying a mycorrhizal inoculant at planting supports root establishment. Mycorrhizal fungi form a natural symbiotic relationship with tree roots. They:

• Increase nutrient uptake
• Improve water absorption
• Support stronger root development
• Help reduce transplant stress

To apply correctly follow the various manufacturer’s instructions but generally :

• Dust the inoculant directly onto the roots before backfilling.
• Ensure it makes direct contact with the root system.
• Do not mix it loosely into the soil without root contact.

Mycorrhizal fungi work best when applied at planting. Adding them later is far less effective. We recommend using Mycochar from our friends at Pembrokeshire Agroforestry

8. Staking

If planting on a rootstock that requires support, insert the stake before or during planting to avoid root damage later.

• Position the stake on the windward side, the side the wind typically comes from.
• Tie the tree securely but allow slight movement. There are many off the shelf products like buckle ties or you can make your own from re-used inner tubes
• The tree should not be rigid — slight movement encourages stronger trunk development.   Another option is placing the stake at an angle of around 45' and tying to the tree  where the they meet. This option is good if the tree has already been planted or a stake has failed, it avoids damaging roots close to the tree.

9. Backfilling and Firming

Backfill using the soil you removed from the hole. Avoid filling the planting hole entirely with compost or manure. While it may seem beneficial, this can discourage roots from moving outward into surrounding soil.

If organic matter is needed (particularly if the soil is degraded, very sandy or very compacted), mix a small amount evenly through the backfill soil rather than creating a compost-rich pocket.

As you refill:

• Gently firm the soil in layers.
• Remove large air pockets by shaking the tree by the stem.
• Do not stamp aggressively - firm, but not compacted. We point our boot towards the stem of the tree and use the heel to firm the soil, this avoids pushing straight down and damaging roots

Now is a good time to add any amendments or lime if the soil is very acidic. Apples enjoy a PH of around 6.2 for optimal growth and cropping.

10. Watering 

Once planted, water thoroughly to settle soil around the roots, even if the ground feels damp.

 

11. Tree Guards

Tree guards are used to protect the bark of the young trees from browsing animals such as rabbit, hare and rodents like voles. These critters will check the young bark and cambium and if this girdles the trunk will kill the tree.

If you share your land with these creatures, you really should keep them away with guards.

There are loads of different designs, but we recommend mesh guards. You can make your own from 10mm metal mesh if you have some but don’t use chicken wire as voles will wriggle through. It’s important to bury the guards 50-100mm below soil level so they won’t burrow under.

12. Mulching

After planting, apply an organic mulch around the base of the tree, about 1m2. Use 100mm Woodchip or composted bark, on top of a layer of thick cardboard.

This keeps the planting area weed/ grass free and slowly adds organic matter and soil nutrients to the tree whilst encouraging fungal dominance and healthy soil structure.

Keep mulch 5–10 cm away from the trunk.

Keep the mulch topped up for a few years.

Aftercare for your Organic Apple Trees in the First Year

Water regularly during dry periods, particularly in spring and early summer. Even in the UK, young trees can suffer in prolonged dry spells although thick organic mulches make a huge difference when it’s hot.

Do not be concerned if top growth appears modest in the first year. Trees focus on root establishment before visible canopy expansion.

If blossom appears in the first spring after planting, consider removing it. Allowing the tree to concentrate on root development often leads to stronger growth and better long-term cropping.

Check tree ties regularly especially during the growing season, ties can become too tight and cause damage to the bark, allowing fungal diseases such as canker to take hold.

Enjoy! and please do not hesitate to get in touch if you have any questions.