Planting an orchard often starts with something emotional  - a love of fruit, a memory of old trees in blossom, a vision of rows heavy with apples in autumn. It’s easy to get swept up in varieties, flavours, and the romance of it all.

But an orchard is not just a dream. It’s a long-term system. The key to success is turning that dream or passion into a rational plan grounded in design and practicalities.

Fruit trees are a 20–50 year commitment. The decisions you make at planting - rootstock, spacing, layout, pollination, protection - will shape how that orchard performs for decades.

Get it right, and you create a productive, resilient space that fits your land and your lifestyle.

Get it wrong, and problems like overcrowding, poor pollination, difficult access, or excessive vigour can become permanent frustrations.

Here is our latest blog that will help guide your thinking and planning of your orchard. 

2. Start With Purpose: Define What You’re Really Planting

Before you think about varieties or spacing, take a step back and define your goal. An orchard without a clear purpose quickly becomes either unmanageable or underperforming.

Ask yourself:

• A steady family supply through the year?
• Cider or juice production?
• Farm diversification or small-scale sales?
• A wildlife or heritage orchard?
• A long-term landscape feature?

Your purpose shapes everything that follows.

Size

How much land are you realistically committing? A few well-placed trees can supply a household. A larger block changes mowing, pruning, harvesting, and access requirements entirely. A large domestic orchard can realistically produce serious amounts of fruit, where will this be stored?

Budget

Beyond the trees themselves, factor in stakes, guards, mulch, irrigation (if needed), and ongoing maintenance. Planning properly avoids surprise costs later.

Workload

Be honest about how much time you can give. Larger trees mean heavier pruning and harvesting. More trees mean more mowing, monitoring, and management. It’s better to plant slightly fewer trees and manage them well than overextend and struggle. Juicing is time consuming and demanding and cider needs space fermentation and storage

Clarity at this stage makes every other decision — rootstock, spacing, layout, and variety choice — much easier and far more logical.

3. Understand Your Site – The Foundation of Every Orchard

Site assessment can feel like the most technical part of orchard planning — soil types, exposure, drainage, frost pockets, aspect. It’s easy to feel overwhelmed by all the variables which can be stressful and lead to poor decision making. Every piece of land has strengths and limitations. Good orchard design must take into account the realities of site specifics

You don't have to be a professional to figure this stuff out just ask some basic questions

• Does water sit after heavy rain?
• If you dig holes, do they fill with water and how long does it take to drain?
• Aspect/ topography- this can effect frost damage during blossom time, wind exposure, ambient temperature and microclimates,
• is the site exposed to prevailing winds? 
• Does the cold air settle in certain areas in spring? 
• Is access easy for mowing and maintenance
• Where does the sun move across the space?
• Are there any shady spots at different times of year?

Even small differences across a field or garden can affect tree performance over time. A sheltered south-facing slope behaves very differently from a flat, frost-prone hollow.

It may feel complex at first glance, but once broken down into simple observations, site assessment becomes manageable - and it’s one of the most valuable steps you can take before a single tree goes into the ground. One of the most helpful things todo is to visit the location as often as possible, ideally during times of intense weather like that 20yr storm, that sharp cold snap in November that endless drought in summer. All these visits can inform you with useful data.

Design for Practicality, not Just Planting

Once you understand your purpose and your site, the next step is layout. This is where orchard planning becomes practical and exciting.

Start with the fundamentals:

• Spacing – determined by rootstock, tree size and long-term management style. Look at our rootstock guide to help you with this. 
• Planting layout- There are options here including traditional rows, offset rows, cluster planting or even random assembly This will be informed by scale, mechanisation and working widths, the presence of livestock/ poultry etc. For larger sites rows and offset rows are preferred as this creates efficient access, and sensible fencing options  to restrict browsing animals. 
• Other woody species- Do you want to include other fruiting crops or non-fruiting species to provide shelter, nitrogen fixation, wildlife benefit
• Agroforestry Options-  if your considering silvo-horticulture, silvo arable watch out for our later blog posts planned for later in the year.
• Orientation – rows often run north–south to maximise light interception but this is not always the case. With wider spaced trees or offset rows east- west is also possible as shading is  mitigated. Wind direction also plays a factor here. In some instances tree rows can funnel prevailing winds creating turbulence
• Access – allow room for mowing, pruning, harvesting and moving equipment.
• Wind exposure – consider shelterbelts or hedge planting where needed especially for exposed/ upland areas
• Drainage patterns – apples and any other fruiting trees dislike permanently wet feet. If you have a very wet site you might want to reconsider your long term objectives or consider drainage/ water holding solutions. This is a skilled job and requires professional advice.

It’s easy to focus purely on fitting in as many trees as possible. Resist that temptation. An orchard that has spacious tree widths will outperform one that is cramped and awkward within a few years. 

Think Beyond the Trees

If your orchard forms part of a wider landscape or commercial project, zoom out further.

Consider:

• Vehicle access — turning space for trailers, ride-on mowers, or tractors.
• Drainage infrastructure — existing ditches, drains, or future land drainage plans.
• Water reticulation — standpipes, irrigation lines, or future supply points.
• Earthworks — levelling, contouring, swales, or soil improvement schemes.
• Buildings and structures — sheds, fencing, livestock areas, or future development.

If any of the above is sounding familiar then you really need to get the broader design system thought out first and all earthworks, access and water elements designed, phased and potentially installed before planting trees. Good orchard planning is not just about trees. It’s about how those trees function within the wider system around them.

Design on paper first

We really advise some time to carefully map out the site and create some form of base map so the layout can be carefully laid out on paper to a known scale. This is especially important if its a large site with additional design features such as tracks, ponds, drains etc. There's loads of online mapping tools available now which are free to access and fairly easy to use . Mistakes made in the office can be rectified easily where as if you rush out and start planting you can get yourself into no end of trouble. 

Budgeting, Phasing & Buying the Right Materials

Budget Before You Buy

It’s tempting to choose varieties first and order trees quickly, especially once you’re excited about the project. But pause.

Work out your full budget before placing a tree order.

Include:

• Trees
• Soil
• Amendments (incl. lime, Mycorrhizal root inoculant, 
• Compost
• Stakes
• Tree ties
• Mesh guards (recommended) or spiral guards
• Stock fencing
• Rabbit/deer fencing (if required)
• Mulch materials
• Irrigation components

In many situations, tree protection can cost as much as - or more than  - the trees themselves. Deer fencing and protecting individual trees from livestock, in particular, can significantly change your budget.

Knowing the real cost upfront allows you to adjust scale sensibly rather than cutting corners on protection later.

Buy Sundries Before You Plant

Have everything on site before the first tree goes in the ground.

Young trees are vulnerable from day one. Proper staking and protection should happen at planting — not as an afterthought.

Consider Phasing

If budget or workload feels stretched, phase the project.

1. Stagger the planting over 2 seasons
2. Complete infrastructure first, trees second.
3. Trial a smaller block before expanding.

Consultancy

Alongside our nursery and production work, we offer a consultancy service aiming to help people move confidently through what can sometimes feel like a complex and overwhelming series of decisions

whether that’s orchard establishment, productive land design, or broader food-growing systems. Good decisions at the outset save time, money and energy later.

James draws on

• several decades of practical experience in the fields of commercial horticulture, nursery production, landscape design, community action and development
• a decade living off-grid - brings a strong understanding of sustainable resource management, rural infrastructure and the importance of designing systems that are efficient, resilient and locally appropriate

We provide advice and mentoring in:

1. Site visits and detailed site assessments
2. Orchard, woodland and agroforestry design
3. Commercial and domestic horticultural production — including crop planning, planting strategies, rotation systems, propagation and no-dig approaches
4. Pathways to retail and wholesale markets
5. Irrigation and water management systems for gardens and farms
6. Residential off-grid infrastructure

Support is available through

1. Site-based 1:1 visits where we can offer site assessment and informal advice
2. Mentoring and ongoing online consultation. 

Whether you are planning an allotment, developing a productive garden, designing an orchard, or undertaking a larger rural project, the aim is to provide clear, guidance tailored to your individual context - enabling you to make sound decisions with confidence. 

Get in touch if you have any questions or would like to access our advice and guidance

The way an apple tree is planted has a lasting impact on its health, stability, and productivity. Most long-term problems - poor growth, weak anchorage, slow cropping - can often be traced back to planting errors in the first few weeks.

The good news is that planting correctly is straightforward.

With careful preparation and attention to a few key details, your tree will establish strong roots, adapt to its new soil, and grow steadily for decades to come.

Whether you are planting a single apple tree in a garden or establishing a small orchard, the principles are the same: protect the roots, prepare the planting site properly, and avoid shortcuts.

Heeling In: If  You Can’t Plant Immediately

All our apples are shipped to you as Bare root trees meaning they are grown in open field conditions rather than pots. They are dug up and shipped to you within several days. They should ideally be planted as soon as possible after delivery. However, weather or ground conditions don’t always cooperate. If the soil is frozen, waterlogged, or you simply aren’t ready to plant, trees should be heeled in temporarily.

What does Heeling in Mean?

Heeling in protects the roots from drying out, getting frozen and prevents damage.

To heel in:

1.         Choose a sheltered, well-drained spot.

2.       Dig a shallow trench deep enough to cover the roots.

3.       Lay the tree at a slight angle.

4.       Cover the roots fully with soil.

5.       Firm gently and water if the soil is dry.

The aim is simply to keep the roots moist and protected until permanent planting is possible. Trees can remain heeled in for many weeks if necessary.

Never leave bare roots exposed to air or sun, even for short periods. Damage to roots is one of the most common causes of establishment failure.

Preparing to Plant your Apple Tree. Steps you need to take

Before digging the hole, prepare the site properly.

1. Remove Grass and Weeds

Clear a circle at least 1 metre wide around the planting spot. Grass competes aggressively with young trees for water and nutrients. This competition is one of the main reasons newly planted trees struggle.

Avoid planting directly into turf without removal as this will significantly slow establishment.

2. Check Drainage

Trees dislike sitting in water. If a planting hole fills and holds water after rain, drainage may need improvement before planting. In heavier soils, breaking up compacted layers around the hole can make a significant difference.

3. Planning

If you are planting over a large area with many trees, we recommend placing stakes where you intend the trees to go to make sure the layout is correct. Make sure you space the trees according to the size of the mature tree as more vigorous rootstocks need more space. Check out our Rootstock Guide for information on this.

4. Soak Bare Roots

Before planting, soak bare roots in water for one to three hours. This rehydrates the tree after transport and reduces transplant shock. Do not soak for excessively long periods.

5. Digging the Right Hole

One of the most common mistakes is digging a hole that is too small.

The planting hole should be:

• Wider than the root system (at least twice the width of the roots)
• No deeper than the roots naturally reach

Wider is far more important than deeper. Roots spread outwards as they establish, so loosening the surrounding soil encourages faster anchorage and growth.

Break up compacted soil around the sides and base of the hole. Avoid leaving smooth, glazed edges, especially in heavy clay, as this can restrict root penetration.

Do not dig excessively deep. Planting too deeply can suffocate roots and weaken the tree. Square or rectangular holes are better for initial establishment as roots are likely to embed into the surrounding soil when they meet a corner.

(Continues with Steps 6 - 12 below this image)

6. Positioning the Tree

When placing the tree in the hole:

• Spread the roots out naturally.
• Ensure the graft union (the visible swelling where the variety meets the rootstock) remains well above soil level, typically 5–8 cm above the finished soil surface.

Planting too deeply is a frequent and serious error.

Burying the graft can allow the variety to root independently, altering the intended tree size and reducing rootstock benefits.

7. Using Mycorrhizal Inoculant

Applying a mycorrhizal inoculant at planting supports root establishment. Mycorrhizal fungi form a natural symbiotic relationship with tree roots. They:

• Increase nutrient uptake
• Improve water absorption
• Support stronger root development
• Help reduce transplant stress

To apply correctly follow the various manufacturer’s instructions but generally :

• Dust the inoculant directly onto the roots before backfilling.
• Ensure it makes direct contact with the root system.
• Do not mix it loosely into the soil without root contact.

Mycorrhizal fungi work best when applied at planting. Adding them later is far less effective. We recommend using Mycochar from our friends at Pembrokeshire Agroforestry

8. Staking

If planting on a rootstock that requires support, insert the stake before or during planting to avoid root damage later.

• Position the stake on the windward side, the side the wind typically comes from.
• Tie the tree securely but allow slight movement. There are many off the shelf products like buckle ties or you can make your own from re-used inner tubes
• The tree should not be rigid — slight movement encourages stronger trunk development.   Another option is placing the stake at an angle of around 45' and tying to the tree  where the they meet. This option is good if the tree has already been planted or a stake has failed, it avoids damaging roots close to the tree.

9. Backfilling and Firming

Backfill using the soil you removed from the hole. Avoid filling the planting hole entirely with compost or manure. While it may seem beneficial, this can discourage roots from moving outward into surrounding soil.

If organic matter is needed (particularly if the soil is degraded, very sandy or very compacted), mix a small amount evenly through the backfill soil rather than creating a compost-rich pocket.

As you refill:

• Gently firm the soil in layers.
• Remove large air pockets by shaking the tree by the stem.
• Do not stamp aggressively - firm, but not compacted. We point our boot towards the stem of the tree and use the heel to firm the soil, this avoids pushing straight down and damaging roots

Now is a good time to add any amendments or lime if the soil is very acidic. Apples enjoy a PH of around 6.2 for optimal growth and cropping.

10. Watering 

Once planted, water thoroughly to settle soil around the roots, even if the ground feels damp.

 

11. Tree Guards

Tree guards are used to protect the bark of the young trees from browsing animals such as rabbit, hare and rodents like voles. These critters will check the young bark and cambium and if this girdles the trunk will kill the tree.

If you share your land with these creatures, you really should keep them away with guards.

There are loads of different designs, but we recommend mesh guards. You can make your own from 10mm metal mesh if you have some but don’t use chicken wire as voles will wriggle through. It’s important to bury the guards 50-100mm below soil level so they won’t burrow under.

12. Mulching

After planting, apply an organic mulch around the base of the tree, about 1m2. Use 100mm Woodchip or composted bark, on top of a layer of thick cardboard.

This keeps the planting area weed/ grass free and slowly adds organic matter and soil nutrients to the tree whilst encouraging fungal dominance and healthy soil structure.

Keep mulch 5–10 cm away from the trunk.

Keep the mulch topped up for a few years.

Aftercare for your Organic Apple Trees in the First Year

Water regularly during dry periods, particularly in spring and early summer. Even in the UK, young trees can suffer in prolonged dry spells although thick organic mulches make a huge difference when it’s hot.

Do not be concerned if top growth appears modest in the first year. Trees focus on root establishment before visible canopy expansion.

If blossom appears in the first spring after planting, consider removing it. Allowing the tree to concentrate on root development often leads to stronger growth and better long-term cropping.

Check tree ties regularly especially during the growing season, ties can become too tight and cause damage to the bark, allowing fungal diseases such as canker to take hold.

Enjoy! and please do not hesitate to get in touch if you have any questions. 

The way an apple tree is planted has a lasting impact on its health, stability, and productivity. Most long-term problems - poor growth, weak anchorage, slow cropping - can often be traced back to planting errors in the first few weeks.

The good news is that planting correctly is straightforward.

With careful preparation and attention to a few key details, your tree will establish strong roots, adapt to its new soil, and grow steadily for decades to come.

Whether you are planting a single apple tree in a garden or establishing a small orchard, the principles are the same: protect the roots, prepare the planting site properly, and avoid shortcuts.

Heeling In: If  You Can’t Plant Immediately

All our apples are shipped to you as Bare root trees meaning they are grown in open field conditions rather than pots. They are dug up and shipped to you within several days. They should ideally be planted as soon as possible after delivery. However, weather or ground conditions don’t always cooperate. If the soil is frozen, waterlogged, or you simply aren’t ready to plant, trees should be heeled in temporarily.

What does Heeling in Mean?

Heeling in protects the roots from drying out, getting frozen and prevents damage.

To heel in:

1.         Choose a sheltered, well-drained spot.

2.       Dig a shallow trench deep enough to cover the roots.

3.       Lay the tree at a slight angle.

4.       Cover the roots fully with soil.

5.       Firm gently and water if the soil is dry.

The aim is simply to keep the roots moist and protected until permanent planting is possible. Trees can remain heeled in for many weeks if necessary.

Never leave bare roots exposed to air or sun, even for short periods. Damage to roots is one of the most common causes of establishment failure.

Preparing to Plant your Apple Tree. Steps you need to take

Before digging the hole, prepare the site properly.

1. Remove Grass and Weeds

Clear a circle at least 1 metre wide around the planting spot. Grass competes aggressively with young trees for water and nutrients. This competition is one of the main reasons newly planted trees struggle.

Avoid planting directly into turf without removal as this will significantly slow establishment.

2. Check Drainage

Trees dislike sitting in water. If a planting hole fills and holds water after rain, drainage may need improvement before planting. In heavier soils, breaking up compacted layers around the hole can make a significant difference.

3. Planning

If you are planting over a large area with many trees, we recommend placing stakes where you intend the trees to go to make sure the layout is correct. Make sure you space the trees according to the size of the mature tree as more vigorous rootstocks need more space. Check out our Rootstock Guide for information on this.

4. Soak Bare Roots

Before planting, soak bare roots in water for one to three hours. This rehydrates the tree after transport and reduces transplant shock. Do not soak for excessively long periods.

5. Digging the Right Hole

One of the most common mistakes is digging a hole that is too small.

The planting hole should be:

• Wider than the root system (at least twice the width of the roots)
• No deeper than the roots naturally reach

Wider is far more important than deeper. Roots spread outwards as they establish, so loosening the surrounding soil encourages faster anchorage and growth.

Break up compacted soil around the sides and base of the hole. Avoid leaving smooth, glazed edges, especially in heavy clay, as this can restrict root penetration.

Do not dig excessively deep. Planting too deeply can suffocate roots and weaken the tree. Square or rectangular holes are better for initial establishment as roots are likely to embed into the surrounding soil when they meet a corner.

(Continues with Steps 6 - 12 below this image)

6. Positioning the Tree

When placing the tree in the hole:

• Spread the roots out naturally.
• Ensure the graft union (the visible swelling where the variety meets the rootstock) remains well above soil level, typically 5–8 cm above the finished soil surface.

Planting too deeply is a frequent and serious error.

Burying the graft can allow the variety to root independently, altering the intended tree size and reducing rootstock benefits.

7. Using Mycorrhizal Inoculant

Applying a mycorrhizal inoculant at planting supports root establishment. Mycorrhizal fungi form a natural symbiotic relationship with tree roots. They:

• Increase nutrient uptake
• Improve water absorption
• Support stronger root development
• Help reduce transplant stress

To apply correctly follow the various manufacturer’s instructions but generally :

• Dust the inoculant directly onto the roots before backfilling.
• Ensure it makes direct contact with the root system.
• Do not mix it loosely into the soil without root contact.

Mycorrhizal fungi work best when applied at planting. Adding them later is far less effective. We recommend using Mycochar from our friends at Pembrokeshire Agroforestry

8. Staking

If planting on a rootstock that requires support, insert the stake before or during planting to avoid root damage later.

• Position the stake on the windward side, the side the wind typically comes from.
• Tie the tree securely but allow slight movement. There are many off the shelf products like buckle ties or you can make your own from re-used inner tubes
• The tree should not be rigid — slight movement encourages stronger trunk development.   Another option is placing the stake at an angle of around 45' and tying to the tree  where the they meet. This option is good if the tree has already been planted or a stake has failed, it avoids damaging roots close to the tree.

9. Backfilling and Firming

Backfill using the soil you removed from the hole. Avoid filling the planting hole entirely with compost or manure. While it may seem beneficial, this can discourage roots from moving outward into surrounding soil.

If organic matter is needed (particularly if the soil is degraded, very sandy or very compacted), mix a small amount evenly through the backfill soil rather than creating a compost-rich pocket.

As you refill:

• Gently firm the soil in layers.
• Remove large air pockets by shaking the tree by the stem.
• Do not stamp aggressively - firm, but not compacted. We point our boot towards the stem of the tree and use the heel to firm the soil, this avoids pushing straight down and damaging roots

Now is a good time to add any amendments or lime if the soil is very acidic. Apples enjoy a PH of around 6.2 for optimal growth and cropping.

10. Watering 

Once planted, water thoroughly to settle soil around the roots, even if the ground feels damp.

 

11. Tree Guards

Tree guards are used to protect the bark of the young trees from browsing animals such as rabbit, hare and rodents like voles. These critters will check the young bark and cambium and if this girdles the trunk will kill the tree.

If you share your land with these creatures, you really should keep them away with guards.

There are loads of different designs, but we recommend mesh guards. You can make your own from 10mm metal mesh if you have some but don’t use chicken wire as voles will wriggle through. It’s important to bury the guards 50-100mm below soil level so they won’t burrow under.

12. Mulching

After planting, apply an organic mulch around the base of the tree, about 1m2. Use 100mm Woodchip or composted bark, on top of a layer of thick cardboard.

This keeps the planting area weed/ grass free and slowly adds organic matter and soil nutrients to the tree whilst encouraging fungal dominance and healthy soil structure.

Keep mulch 5–10 cm away from the trunk.

Keep the mulch topped up for a few years.

Aftercare for your Organic Apple Trees in the First Year

Water regularly during dry periods, particularly in spring and early summer. Even in the UK, young trees can suffer in prolonged dry spells although thick organic mulches make a huge difference when it’s hot.

Do not be concerned if top growth appears modest in the first year. Trees focus on root establishment before visible canopy expansion.

If blossom appears in the first spring after planting, consider removing it. Allowing the tree to concentrate on root development often leads to stronger growth and better long-term cropping.

Check tree ties regularly especially during the growing season, ties can become too tight and cause damage to the bark, allowing fungal diseases such as canker to take hold.

Enjoy! and please do not hesitate to get in touch if you have any questions. 

Here at One Planet Organics, we’re a little obsessed with apples - verging on nerdy - their endless flavours, textures, and the history behind every variety is so interesting to us.  

We hope that some of our interest rubs of on our customers and people who follow us as planting Apple trees offers one of the most rewarding opportunities for home growers. 

Apple trees aren’t just fruit; they’re an adventure. Imagine tasting apples that aren’t in supermarkets, discovering textures you didn’t know existed, and planning an orchard that reflects your personal taste. And all on your doorstep. 

Having nearly 100 organic apple tree varieties at our organic and off-grid Tree Nursery, brings the chance to experience an extraordinary range of flavours, textures, and uses - far beyond what’s available in supermarkets.

There is something to suit almost every taste, garden or site, and growing condition.

That level of choice can feel exciting, but it can also be a little overwhelming.

Choosing the right apple tree isn’t about picking a name you recognize. It’s about finding varieties that suit your taste, your garden/site, and your preference.

In this article, we’ll explore the rich diversity of apple trees, why it matters, and how understanding it helps you make better and more confident long-term choices.

Why We Grow So Many Apple Varieties

It might seem a bit over-the-top to offer almost 100 apple varieties. But diversity is the secret ingredient. Each variety has been carefully chosen over centuries for flavour, texture, adaptability, and purpose.

Here’s what this variety gives you:

• A rainbow of flavours and textures far beyond supermarket apples
• A longer harvest season, thanks to early, mid, and late varieties
• Naturally resilient trees that need less intervention
• A living connection to hundreds of years of apple-growing history

Curious? Take a look at our Dessert, Cooking, and Cider Apple Trees and start imagining your own orchard.

Apple Tree Fruit - from sweet to tart: flavours and textures

One of the joys of growing your own apples is discovering the incredible variation in taste and feel. 

Some apples are crisply sweet, perfect for eating straight from the tree. Others are tart and firm, ideal for pies, sauces, or juicing. Certain storage varieties start acidic but mellow into dessert-quality apples over time.

And cider apples? They’re a whole world of strong tannins and acids, wonderful for home brewing.

Here’s a flavour snapshot:

• Sweet dessert apples – juicy, aromatic, best fresh from the tree
• Sharp cooking apples – firm, tart, perfect for pies and sauces
• Storage apples – develop flavour over weeks or months, ideal for winter
• Cider apples – high tannin and acid for crafting your own beverages

Next step: Once you’ve explored flavours, it’s worth considering how affect your orchard plans. Size matters — literally — for space, maintenance, and harvest.

Harvest Times and Tree Sizes: Planning for your Apple Tree Orchard

Apple diversity isn’t just about flavour. Some apples ripen early in summer, others hang on until winter. Mixing early, mid, and late-season varieties lets you enjoy fresh fruit over months and spreads harvesting work across the season.

Tree size is another factor - this is mostly determined by rootstock. This means you can:

• Fit smaller trees into gardens or allotments
• Grow larger trees as long-term features in orchards
• Balance workload and space for multiple varieties

Mixing flowering and cropping times also helps reduce disease risk and makes life easier for busy gardeners. Learn more in our Rootstock Guide to find the right match for your garden.

Keeping Qualities: From Fresh Eating to Storage

Not all apples are meant to be eaten immediately. Some taste best straight from the tree, while others improve in storage, extending your enjoyment into late winter. Growing organically naturally helps these apples retain flavour, without the chemical tricks often used commercially.

• Early dessert apples – ready to eat soon after picking
• Mid-season varieties – versatile for eating or cooking
• Storage apples – improve over time, perfect for winter enjoyment

By choosing a combination of early and late apples, you can create an orchard that keeps giving throughout the season. Explore our  Apple Tree collection for inspiration.

Heritage and Regional Apple Trees

Supermarket apples are bred for appearance, shelf life, and transport, often at the cost of flavour. Heritage and regional varieties tell a different story — they bring unique flavours, natural resilience, and centuries of human selection to your garden.

Growing these apples is like tasting history:

• Experience flavours rarely found commercially
• Enjoy trees with natural disease resistance
• Connect your orchard to centuries of tradition

Take a look at our Heritage and Cider Apple Trees to discover varieties you won’t find anywhere else.

Making Confident Choices as a Home Grower

Every apple variety is the result of centuries of careful selection, adapted to specific climates, tastes, and uses. With nearly 100 organic varieties available, it’s easy to feel overwhelmed — but with the right guidance, the perfect tree for your garden is within reach.

Our website makes it simple to explore:

• Flavour and texture profiles
• Tree size and rootstock options
• Harvest times and keeping qualities
• Pollination groups and disease resistance

Next step: Visit our How to Choose the Right Apple Tree guide to make confident, informed choices for your garden.

Discover Organic Apple Trees for Your Garden

Apple diversity is just the beginning. Finding the right variety for your taste, your space, and your lifestyle turns a simple tree into a lifelong companion.

If you’d like help selecting the perfect organic apple trees, explore our full range of nearly 100 varieties, or get in touch for that personal touch and guidance from us. 

We want to help you get the perfect apple tree for you, so you can enjoy the blossom and the harvest for years to come and leave a legacy for generations to come.

You want to grow your own apple trees? 

-in your garden, on your allotment or smallholding, on your farm or in a community space?

But where to start?

Choosing the right organic apple tree involves some key decisions.  

The variety you choose, the rootstock it’s grafted onto, and how well it suits your space and growing conditions (e.g. soil, aspect, shelter, size of garden) will shape the health, size and productivity of your tree for decades to come.

If you are right at the start of your apple tree growing journey and this seems rather overwhelming, fear not – in this article we aim to guide you through all the decisions you’ll need to make. And make it a little easier for you.

Or if you know a little bit about growing apple trees, you might benefit from this guide as there might be things you hadn’t thought about.

Whether you’re planting a single tree in a back garden or establishing a small orchard, understanding a few key principles — rootstocks, disease resistance, pollination and planting timing — will help you choose an apple tree that thrives naturally, in your unique context.

Why growing your own organic apples trees is great!

First let me share a little bit about our passion for growing apple trees

• An apple tree just keeps on giving - first the beautiful blossom in spring , then the glory of seeing the first apples appear on the tree as tiny buds that they grow and expand into fruit for the harvest.
• There’s nothing quite like picking your own apple off a tree you’ve grown yourself and savouring the delicious juicy fruit. 
• We’re really into supporting others to grow their own and, into local food resiliency. Apple trees are a really great way to plant a legacy that will provide fruit for generations, that your great-grandchildren might eat. 
• Support wildlife - not only do the bees do the important job of pollinating, and make honey from the nectar collected, the blossom feeds them and loads of other beasties.

Step one. When to think about buying and planting an apple tree.

When the apples trees are in blossom is a great time to be inspired about planting an apple tree and is probably the perfect time to research what sort of apple you want. But it’s not the time to buy or plant an apple tree.

When is the time, I hear you ask? Nov-March, when the trees are in dormancy. 

Why is this important? We supply bare root apple trees, in living soil, not pots and it’s the time to safely lift them from the ground, transport them and replant them when the trees are dormant. 

Why we produce Bare Root Apple Trees?

All of our apple trees are supplied bare root during the dormant season, because this is still the most effective, sustainable way to establish long-lived fruit trees.

Bare-root trees are lifted from the ground while dormant (Nov-March in the UK, meaning they experience minimal transplant shock and establish strong root systems quickly once planted. With no plastic pots or peat-based composts involved, they also have a far lower environmental footprint.

For organic growing in particular, starting with a healthy, vigorous root system gives trees a much better foundation for a long, healthy and productive life.)

For more details on the best times to buy and plant an apple tree please refer them to [the article already written with link]

Step 2. Choosing the apple tree variety. Why Variety Matters – Beyond Bramley Apple Trees

Did you know that there are 7,500 apple tree varieties (cultivars) grown worldwide. If you were to try a different apple every day, it would take you more than 20 years to taste them all. In the UK we have 2,500 varieties. 

Yet, despite this huge diversity of apples available, commercial supermarkets rely on a very small number of varieties. Fruit from the Gala apple tree or the Braeburn apple tree are the most likely dessert (eating) apple varieties you’ll see on the supermarket shelves. Whereas fruit from the Bramley apple tree is the most likely cooking apple. And I’ve never seen a cider apple for sale in a supermarket!

Supermarkets apples are selected primarily for their ability to store for long periods, withstand transport, and look uniform on shelves -  not for flavour, resilience or suitability for home growing.

For growers, this narrow genetic base offers little of interest.

By choosing from a wider range of apple varieties, home growers can enjoy:

• More flavour and texture options
• Apples suited to fresh eating, cooking or cider
• Trees adapted to local climates and soils
• Greater resilience in organic systems
• Different cropping times, spreading the harvest over several months and on into winter storage

We produce organic bare root apple trees, with apple tree varieties chosen specifically for their natural disease resistance for our site - we are in West Wales in sub-optimal growing conditions for apples, so if the apple tree varieties work for us they will work for most people in the UK. 

We’ve also chosen varieties so we can offer a range of apple trees with pollination-seasons (more why that’s important later). 

Step 3. Choosing the right rootstock for your apple tree

UNDERSTANDING DIFFERENT APPLE ROOTSTOCKS

Every apple tree we produce is grafted: the fruiting variety (eg. bramley apple tree) is joined to a rootstock that controls the eventual size, vigour and adaptability of the tree. Choosing the right rootstock is just as important as choosing the variety itself.

Rootstock choice affects not only tree size and vigour, but also soil tolerance, anchorage, drought resistance and long-term health. Understanding this relationship helps ensure your apple tree fits both your space and your management style.

We graft our apple trees onto four carefully selected rootstocks, each suited to different situations:

M26 - a semi-dwarfing rootstock ideal for smaller gardens. Produces manageable trees with good early cropping when well supported and grown in fertile soil. 2.4-3.6m. Can grown as stand alone trees and as cordons or espaliers – esp great if space is tight as you want apples asap (2-3 years rather than 3-4)

MM106 - a widely used semi-vigorous rootstock suited to gardens, allotments and small orchards. Reliable, adaptable and capable of supporting productive trees with minimal intervention. 3.5-4m, also suitable to cordons or espaliers.

M111 - a vigorous rootstock with excellent drought tolerance and anchorage. Well suited to poorer soils, exposed sites and low-input orchard systems. 5-6m

M116 - a modern semi-vigorous rootstock offering improved disease tolerance and strong performance in organic systems, while keeping the tree size manageable at 3-4m.

Contact us.  If you want any advice selecting the right rootstock for you, please do  get in touch as we happy to offer a helping hand 

Some other factors to consider when choosing your organic apple trees

DISEASE RESISTANT APPLE TREES

Apple trees vary widely in their natural resistance to common problems such as apple scab, mildew and canker. These naturally occurring conditions effect tree health, yields and fruit quality.

Choosing varieties with good inherent resistance:

• Reduces the need for intervention and additional effort
• Improves reliability in wet or challenging seasons as well as parts of the uk not considered suitable for fruit growing
• Leads to healthier trees with longer productive lives

Disease-resistant varieties are especially important in gardens and small orchards where airflow may be limited and spraying is undesirable or impractical.

Most of our varieties have been chosen by us because they are naturally disease resistant. 

POLLINATION GROUPS

Most apple trees need a compatible pollination partner in order to crop well. 

Each variety of apple tree belongs to a pollination group based on its flowering time, and trees from overlapping groups can pollinate each other. We categorise apple trees we produce as Early, Mid and Late Season. So for successful pollination you’ll need overlap.

For example. if you were to buy 2 trees go for an early with a mid, or a mid with a late, not an early with a late. If you wanted 3 trees, you could select an early, mid and late season apple tree.

When choosing an apple tree, it’s important to consider:

• Whether you already have apple trees nearby
• The flowering group of your chosen varieties
• The presence of pollinating insects in your area

With the right combinations, even a small garden can support excellent pollination and reliable harvests.

You might even need 2 or 3 trees, just buying one might not be enough, esp if you don’t already have any or there aren’t any others in nearby gardens

The Best Time to Plant Bare Root Apple Trees

Bare root apple trees should be planted during the dormant season, typically from late autumn through to early spring while the tree is not in active growth.

Planting during this period allows roots to establish before the demands of spring growth, giving the tree a strong start in its first year. We advise our customers to buy their trees as early as possible and to plant them as soon as they receive them, ideally in December and January. This allows the roots to bed in and tolerate dry conditions in spring.

For best results:

• Avoid planting when the ground is frozen or waterlogged
• Prepare the site in advance, loosening soil and removing perennial weeds
• Water in well after planting, even in winter
• Use mycelium powder on the roots and in the hole as you plant it

Trees planted at the right time establish faster, require less aftercare, and show better early growth.

Helping you Choose the Perfect Bare root and organic apple tree for you with Confidence

On our website, we feature about 90 varieties of dessert (eating) apple trees, cooking apple trees and cider apple trees. 

Each variety is described with the details growers actually need: pollination group, rootstock options, expected size, and natural disease resistance.

We also include clear descriptions of flavour, texture and appearance, so you can choose apples that suit your individual context. 

By bringing all of this together in one place, we make it easier to choose a tree that will thrive naturally and reward you for years to come.

Explore our collection of organic apple trees to find the variety that’s right for you. Whether you want Dessert apples or cooking apples or cider making apples

We’re excited to help you start your apple tree journey or supply you a hardy and heritage apple tree

If you still need some more hand-holding, please do get in touch, and we are more than happy to help you select the apple tree variety, apple tree rootstock that is most suitable for you.

Happy Appling! 

The other day a friend said to me, "When it's summertime, I'd love to buy a dessert apple tree or two from you.

I replied, "Wonderful, but don't wait till then, because now – November - is the perfect time to think about buying and plant an apple tree."

Mid-November might seem an odd time to think about planting a new apple tree - when all the trees around are losing their leaves and preparing for winter. When seedling trees look nothing more than sticks, it can feel rather incongruous, I know. 

When is the apple tree season?

If you are not in the trade or the know, you’d be forgiven for thinking the season of glorious apple blossom or the appearance of fruit is the time to think about when to get a new apple tree them in the ground.

And yet, it’s the perfect time, from November till mid-March. The sooner the better to give a long time for the roots to establish before spring comes.

You see, because we grow trees in the ground rather than in pots - this is called bareroot - the season for planting apple trees starts now, when the trees are dormant. More about that later.

But first, what is an organic bareroot apple tree?

Simply put, the trees are grown out in the field in the living soil, not in pots. Producing bareroot apples trees is pretty standard in the organic apple tree industry.

Trees are lifted Nov-March and despatched with the roots bare, wrapped in something to keep them from damage or drying out, rather than in a pot full of compost.  

Growing trees in the soil means healthier, more robust & resilient trees that are less prone to disease. Root systems are able to develop well - better, faster - than they would if grown in pots.

Growing trees in pots is more time & resource consuming - with the need to water the trees, sometimes twice daily in the summer. There is the need for large volume of potting compost and plastic plant pots.

As an eco-conscious and low impact Nursery, we work with systems that minimise our plastic use and importing of resources. More on our story

 The roots get cramped in pots and can’t access the beneficial mycorrhizal and biome of living soil that support growth, especially when the trees are young. Growing trees this way, means we can only supply the apple trees seasonally – in the dormant season, November-March.

 What does that mean for a tree to be dormant? A tree enters dormancy and stops its above-ground growth and conserves energy during the cold winter months to survive harsh conditions.

During this time, the tree's metabolic activity slows down, leaves drop, and it prepares for the next growing season, which is signalled by cold temperatures that accumulate over winter, followed by warmer spring temperatures. This state of inactivity allows the tree to endure winter and come back to life in spring, producing new leaves and fruit.

The trees have only just gone into dormancy - really late this year. So now we are officially in the season for lifting, despatching and planting organic apple trees.

Attempting to lift, despatch and replant outside of the dormancy season is detrimental to the health of the trees. At best, it will affect the initial growth of the tree, and at worse may even kill them.

So, if you, like my friend, are thinking about getting an apple tree and planting an apple tree, now is the time! 

The sooner you buy the tree, the sooner we can despatch, and the sooner you can get the tree in the ground - which means the tree has ages to get its roots established well before the blossom begins to appear. 

How to buy your apple tree

You can now Browse and Buy our range of dessert, cooking and cider trees with 90+ hardy, heritage varieties to choose from.

There are listed as collections

Browse Dessert apple trees

Browse Cooking apple trees

Browse Cider apple Tree

 How about an Apple-themed Gift Card as a gift for Christmas?

For that family member who loves to garden and grow their own or that friend who always wanted to plant an apple tree, but never quite got around to it. A great gift that keeps on giving, year on year, and helps support biodiversity at the same time. Check them out here

 Now, how to choose the perfect organic apple tree for you

 What organic apple tree should I plant?

 There are many things to consider. 

 First you need to decide what sort of apple tree you want. A dessert apple tree, a cooking apple tree or a cider apple tree? This will depend on whether you are after apples you can eat, bake with or make an alcoholic tipple with, and of course, let’s not forget apple juice is rather delicious.

 Varieties of organic apple trees Then it’s the variety of tree you want – what sort of apple – a crisp sweet one, or a softer texture one etc – this information is down to personal taste. Each apple tree we sell has a description with it to help you decide which ones you want.

All trees are hardy, heritage varieties, and proven to be particularly hardy in our damp Welsh climate. Some are from the West Country, some originate in Wales, some in Kent and some from Herefordshire. We have a range of more standard varieties and some rarer ones. So hopefully there is something to suit everyone

Rootstocks

Then you have think about the Rootstock that you want. The rootstock is what determines the height and vigour of the tree. So, this is where the location, aspect, elevation, shelter characteristics of your site come into play, as well as the size of the space where you intend to plant. You can refer to our Rootstock guide to help you. 

 In short,

M26 – Semi dwarf. Up to 3m high.

MM106 – Medium. grows up to 3-4m high.

M116 – Medium. grows up to 3-4m high.

M111 – Large. grows up to 4m high.

M25– Very Large.  grows up to 6m high.

 Want any help deciding? 

 It can feel a little overwhelming with all the things you need to consider. We are happy to offer you advice and help to choose the tree variety and rootstock that suits your needs. We can also give you planting advice and also offer a Consultancy service too

In the first instance, please Get in touch and we can arrange a call to speak to you directly,

One final thought, even though the apple trees look like sticks now, know they are full of promise of a fruit for generations to come.

Buy an apple tree now, and invest in a delicious fruity future!